Frank Lloyd Wright's Masterpiece

The Frederick C. Robie House (1910)

in 1:87 (HO) scale
by Dover

by Mike Stamper

Model photographs by the author





Starting with the "teaser" I left with you in my last review, I bought this kit at the Frank Lloyd Wright visitors' center in Taliesin in Wisconsin.

To sum up the kit: FLW would turn in his grave if he knew that something of this standard was being sold on his property! I should have been warned, just by looking at the model on the cover. Dover kits are printed on over-thick card and have a gloss finish. I built one of their kits a few years ago, and I don't remember the card being so thick. So the first thing I did was to separate the pages from the book and spray the pages with a matte varnish.

This kit comes in book form with 16 pages of parts, 8 pages of instructions and a brief history of the house. The instructions are generally "cut out, score and fold part 12 and glue to part 11." In some cases they refer to one of the 10 line drawings of the more complicated sections. There are also 3 photographs: one is from the north side and one from the south. Both pictures show the complete building on a base but without the roofs. The third picture is a south view with the roofs in place. In each picture some of the parts are numbered.

I had also heard from a friend that it was difficult to mount the building so that the walls were at the correct angle, but more of this later. Because of this warning I decided to complete individual sections and then -- when they were all made -- I would start to mount the pieces onto a base. Again, more on this later.

As you may have noticed, there are quite a few pictures; so lets get started.

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Click on the thumbnails to view the larger images

The cover. A good looking building, but the fun has only just begun

This shows one of the concrete pieces that I have partially skinned. I have done this on all the tabs for two reasons: 1) the pieces are too thick, and thinner tabs helps to make better joints, and 2) I found that a new glue I am experimenting with does not like gloss or varnished surfaces.

There are quite a few points where pieces have tabs that are slotted into other parts. This means that throughout the build slits have to be cut into the walls. This generally results in a poor fit so I glue small pieces of wood in place of the lines to indicate the slots. This means that all the tabs are removed. I feel that while this is a long process it is worth it.

This is part 28, unfortunately the drawing is a little fuzzy, but you may be able to see the relevant piece. It took me quite a while to realise that the two "boxes" are not connected at the front. The roof of the smaller box gives a clue to this, but only just.




These few pictures give a graphic idea of the unnecessarily thick card. The stairs are the most obvious because of the small size.

This is the final step (excuse the pun). The only way to make them look partly respectable was to paint the card and then use a small amount of glue to re-attach the top layer to the base. I used a water based glue that made the card damp and therefore helped in forming square steps. Notice also the edges of the walls. I guess I could have cut off all the tabs and mitered all the edges, but unfortunately there is a limit to my patience!

Here we have the impressive front to the house. As you will see there are many separate pillars to make (remember the second picture above). Not only did I skin the tabs, but I also removed the gloss printed layer from the back of each pillar. Then each pillar had to be painted with two colours. You will have to look closely, but the second and third pillars from the right nearest the wall are supposed to be identical. However, it looks as if the first of the two has  been printed in only one colour. This is quite noticeable in the cover picture. I therefore placed the cement bit at the top so it was not so noticeable. (FLW, eat your heart out!)

Desperate situations lead to desperate measures. I mentioned earlier that my glue was not sticking to gloss card, and even my usual glue was not very good. So, I had to remove areas on the walls and scraping with a knife was inefficient but my mini drill and grinder worked best. It also helped to dispel some of my frustration.

Proof of the comments I made about the front of the house two pictures ago.


The front wall is almost complete. This an HO scale building so I decided to add my own railway gardens; they cover up some of the bare corners!

By now all the main components of the building are complete and the next job is the walls. "Score, cut and fold" is all they tell you. Its not until the next step that you realise that it would have been easier to add two small pieces before completing the wall.

As they say, "all's well that ends well." You will note that I've been using the grinder again (about ¼ of the way from the far end.)

I'm not aware of a collective noun for built parts, so a plethora of parts will have to suffice.

This part I had to leave till the end. The folding instructions and the fold lines didn't make any sense, and even the diagram did not help. The only alternative was to leave it until I dry-fitted all the parts, and could then see how this one should have been folded to fit. I eventually decided that the first fold line was in the wrong place and that the second should have been a valley fold, but not on one of the marked lines. Therefore, I have a black line in the wrong place and I had to carefully measure where the next fold should be. A bit of paint covered the cut wall and the grinder completed the task.

I laid out all the pieces on my bench and cut a piece of board to make the base. I glued down the two walls at the right hand end then continued with the garage and continued toward the left. To ensure that corners were square I used the edge of my base board as the base line for all angles and distances. Using a combination of "T" square and setsquare, I thought I had every thing straight. Unfortunately, not all the walls were the right length but the only real discrepancy showed up in the low wall on the left of the long front wall. Thankfully, I was able to adjust the wall so that the long wall is still parallel with the front of the house.

The top view of the partially finished ground floor. Due to a few misaligned vertical walls, the board started to bend. Hence the metal rule and clamps to hold it flat while the glue on some strengtheners is dry.

Just one example of "tab overload".

Here are the roofs. They are in three sections but each section is made up of at least four parts.

I was pleasantly surprised how well the roof fitted, after all the games with my setsquare. There were only minor adjustments, although I did have to resort to my grinder to ensure the roofs glued to the green bits (eaves?)


Done, at last! That sounds a bit OTT, but I hope you know what I mean! Although the experience has been quite frustrating, I must admit that I am pleasantly surprised at the results.


This has not been one of the easiest kits to build; the thickness of the card and the high gloss caused problems, and trying to "pull the whole thing together" on a base was "geometric." What can I say as a parting comment? This isn't one of the easiest architectural models, but the subject is a change from the usual castles;, and at least it will bring back good memories of our week in Wisconsin.

Till next time!

Mike Stamper