by Dan Bishop
Over the past 5 years I have watched, listened and learned from many of my modeling friends. This is the first publication that has afforded me an opportunity to share some of what I have learned with you.
For about a year I kept all of my tools stored in a "stand-up" type holder, but this just ended up in a clutter all over my desk area. I switched to two of the larger plastic artists' toolboxes. Both have tops that open to permit storage of the little essentials such as knife blades, glue containers, small clamps and toothpicks. Below that area are trays that hold other medium-sized items such as steel rulers, boxed knife sets and longer dowels for rolling paper. In the bottom of the box are my larger tools, such as hole punches, circle cutters, longer tubes of various diameters for rolling paper, and some longer rulers for cutting out large areas.
On my table area I keep an 18' by 24" self-healing mats for all cutting. On each end of the table I keep a swivel light with a 40 watt light bulb in each. I use the soft blue tint bulbs that make the light softer on your eyes and create less strain. As far as the work area and storage of the tools goes that is about it. It's low cost and just about maintenance free.
For cutting I use a soft handle X-acto knife with #11 blades. I keep a good supply of the blades on hand and I don't try to sharpen them. I've not had good luck with that and damaged a few sheets while cutting them. It is just a matter of personal preference. My backup or second choice of knife is the contour style X-acto handle that also accommodates the #11 blades. For scoring lines I use a wooden handled burnisher with a very micro-sized tip on one end and a tip about the size of an empty ballpoint tip on the other. They work smoothly and have never torn the paper. My circle cutter is an Olga of the smaller size. I hand cut larger circles using scissors first, and then an X-acto knife to finalize the cuts. For straight edges I use yellow fluorescent drawing triangles in 45/45/90 degree and 30/60/90 degree, a straight ruler of the same material, and a steel ruler with cork backing.
At one of our local "Dollar Stores" I found battery-operated lighted rulers that illuminate their circumference when you press down on them. This is very handy for dealing with hard to see lines. The battery is replaceable. For glue I use Aleene's Tacky and Quick Set types, but occasionally use thick Cynoacrylate (#2) for filling gaps. I also use one of the UHU glues for slow fastening work that I may encounter.
One of the handiest things that I have come across for paper modeling is miniature clothes pins. I use the ones that are normally employed in making small crafts and are about 1/5th the size of a normal clothespin. I pick them up at Michael's Crafts and have also found them at Dollar Stores (both in the U.S.). There are about 30 or 40 in a bag; an ample supply that should meet any modeler's needs. With these items you can get into card modeling with the best of them. No fancy frills or specialty tools other than the circle cutter but, if necessary, you can cut circles without it. It just takes some practice.
Enjoy your modeling and I hope to have more tips and ideas for you in coming issues.
